Eat & Drink

Chef Interviews

GoldenLeaf

What happens when a superb Cantonese restaurant partners with an exalted Burgundy winery to create a masterful wine-paired meal? An eagerly anticipated and memorable dining experience, for sure. More than that, it defines another milestone in the evolving sophistication of wine-paired Chinese dining, and one that is much talked about. The partners behind this exclusive arrangement are Golden Leaf at the Conrad Hong Kong , one of the city's finest upscale Cantonese restaurants, and Albert Bichot, a much-acclaimed, sixth-generation winery in Burgundy, France.

The subtler and more refined flavours of Cantonese food have long made it the favoured Chinese cuisine for wine-pairing. Over the years, wine-pairing Cantonese dining has gained popularity and sophistication. For this endeavour, Chef Tony Wan Chung-yiu has devised a menu of new dishes tailored to bring out the complexities of Albert Bichot wines.

The Wine-pairing Tasting Menu ($ 1,800 dinner; $ 2,500 including wine pairing) is a seven-course dinner paired with five wines from Albert Bichot, including three special bottles exclusive to this occasion. We were first treated to a welcome champagne that is light and refreshing. The meal then started with Pan-seared Hokkaido Scallops, Green Asparagus, Garlic Sauce, paired with a glass of 2015 Bichot 'Vieilles Vignes' Bourgogne, an excellent Pinot Noir that is dry, balanced and citric, with a hint of cherry flavour that perfectly sets off the scallops. Another delicious and aromatic dish, Sauteed Crab Claw, Scrambled Egg White, Black Truffle, is paired with a 2013 Pommard Clos des Ursulines Pavillon, a smooth, fruity wine with ripe tannins and subtle in its flavours. The

claw meat is sweet and tender, its flavour tantalisingly enhanced by the black truffle aroma.

Wok-fried Kagoshima A5 Wagyu followed, paired with a 2017 Bichot 'Vieilles Vignes' Bourgogne, a top-notch Pinot Noir that superbly complements the beef's rich flavour. We liked the new wrinkle of wok-frying the Wagyu, which keeps the beef tender while retaining its marbled texture. The same wine is paired with the next dish, Duo of Iberico Pork, Mushroom, Black Pepper, Osmanthus Sauce, the flavour of the dish enhanced by a secret sauce concocted by Chef Wan.

A real treat came next, Braised Whole South African Abalone, Supreme Sauce, paired with a 2014 Clos Frantin Nuits-St-Georges, from the heart of Burgundy. The rich fruity wine offers a robust, balanced palate and an intense finish that blends well with the rich and savoury sauce and the succulent abalone meat.

The sumptuous meal ends with the savoury Golden Leaf Crab Meat Fried Rice, Homemade XO Sauce. And capped off by Bichot Crème de Cassis Delight, Blackcurrants, Coconut Milk, paired with the same Bichot Crème de Cassis, a light, sweet wine perfect for the fruity flavoured cake and Chinese petits fours .

The wine-paired dinner at Golden Leaf was an immensely pleasurable experience and sets a lofty standard for others to follow. If you are looking for a outstanding meal accompanied by excellent wines, we highly recommend it. ■

Lower Lobby Level, Conrad Hong Kong, 88 Queensway, Pacific Place, Hong Kong

2822 8870