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Howard's Gourmet

Hong Kong’s ability to attract international chefs of all stripes to set up shop in Hong Kong speaks to its reputation as Asia’s culinary capital and, in the process, enriches the city’s dining scene. That extends to successful chefs and restaurateurs from Mainland China with a flair for creating innovative and unique dining experiences. Such is the case with Howard’s Gourmet, a swanky restaurant located on the 5th floor of a prestigious office building in Central, serving innovative Cantonese cuisine and a full complement of quality wines, whiskies and Cognac.

Howard Cai, the Chef-in-chief, so to speak, made his name in Guangzhou where his first restaurant venture quickly gained a reputation as one of the go-to places for the rich and famous. A chemistry graduate, Cai applied his discipline to food composition with fervour and designed many of his dishes to achieve the optimal balance in flavour and taste.

The restaurant is lushly decorated in a classical French feel with embroidered upholstery and elegant tables; the place is partitioned into several private rooms which enhances its exclusivity. A fully stocked bar with Chef Cai’s own branded whiskies and vintage wines is luxuriantly decorated, adding the last piece to a classy environment.

Both lunch and dinner offer set menus from the chef, for which they procure fresh items from the markets and food suppliers each day in limited quantities – so it’s best to book ahead.

Our set lunch (HK$1,000 per person) started withtwo small radish dishes, amuse bouche Chinese style, plus a tasty welcome soup that ‘warmed up’ our appetite, we were told. Our first appetizer was Golden Bite, a delicately deepfried piece of kau fish that practically melts in the mouth. Next is Chef Cai’s Signature Sea Cucumberwhich is lightly marinated, then braised and flamed before it is served. This ensures the sea cucumber tastes rich and chewy and lingers long in the mouth.

Another appetizer, the Pan-fried Sausage Roll topped with Cheese, came next – the dishes are served in the order that best enhances each other’s tastes. The Chinese sausage tastes exquisite and blends surprisingly well with the cheese. We then went back to another main course, the Double-boiled Sea-Whelk Soup

with Olive. The soup base is superb, its rich taste redolent of the effort and ingredients put into it. And the combination of tender sea-whelk meat and olives is imaginative and works well. We are beginning to appreciate the chef’s obsession with matching ingredients.

Two more small dishes followed, the Deepfried Fish Fillet with Light Soy Sauce– a really delicious and light fried fish fillet, and Wok-fried Mustard Greenwith egg-white which looks and tastes healthy.

We ended the meal with a most delightful Hot and Sour Noodlescooked just right that reveal a subtle uniqueness. A Pistachio Mousse, more French than Chinese, but well prepared all the same, completed our meal.

It would be remiss not to mention that our meal was accompanied with several outstanding wines from Burgundy plus a trio of private-label Scotch whiskies, all of which enhanced what can only be called a memorable dining experience.

Howard's Gourmet

5/F, CCB Tower, 3 Connaught Road Central, Central

2115 3388

(Edited on 22 Feb 2017)