We then had the Baked Cod in Spring Onion Sauce (HK$298), an incredibly tender and light (but well-portioned and meaty) dish served hot and wrapped in spring onion. It was perfectly flavoured; the onion was not too strong, as it can sometimes be.

And then we had the highlight of the meal, the Braised “Shanghai” Style Duck (HK$368), Eight-treasure duck in Chinese). The duck, which takes four hours to prepare, is stuffed with glutinous rice and “eight treasures”: dried shrimp, dried scallops, preserved ham, lotus seeds, gingko, chestnuts (replacing the traditional liver for health considerations), preserved egg yolk, and dried mushrooms. It was even better than we expected. It was heavy but lovely – everything just went so well together. The duck wasn’t too fatty either, as the restaurant has been making an effort to offer “healthier” Chinese cuisine. This is definitely the dish to order if you come here.

Then we had Minced Peas with Dried Scallop (HK$98), another restaurant specialty of broad peas braised in stock, minced, and topped with sautéed fresh scallops. And of course, the classic xiao long bao – Steamed “Wuxi” style soup dumplings (HK$60) – absolutely delicious as usual. The restaurant’s version is lighter than most, with a thin but unbreakable skin.